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Home Front: Culture Wars
This Week in Books - 02/28/2016
2016-02-29
Life did not permit an appropriate review of Ian Toll's Six Frigates.
This is a follow-up to a previous This Week in Books:

The Food of Sante Fe
Dave DeWitt and Nancy Gerlach, et el.
Periplus, 1998

There is a photograph on Page 71 of a side dish which kept catching my eye, and finally had an opportunity to test it out, with variations.

Venison Red Chile Stew
Page 133

This is a recipe that has its roots in old Pueblo Indian cooking and is basically meat in a seasoned chile sauce. Pork and beef are more commonly used, but venison is a tasty variation.
(three (out of three possible) 'how much time?' emblems)

6 to 8 dried New Mexican red chiles
1 ancho chile
1 pasilla chile (optional)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 pounds venison, cut into 1 1/2 inch cubes
1 large onion, chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
3 cups beef broth
salt

Place the chiles on a baking pan and toast for 15 minutes, or until fragrant, being careful not to let them burn. Remove the stems and seeds from the chiles and crumble them into a bowl. Cover them with hot water and let them steep 15 minuts, until soft. Drain them and discard the water.

In a heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium heat, add the venison, and brown. Remove the meat and add the onion to the pan. Add more oil if necessary and saute until the onion begins to brown, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for 1 to 2 minutes.

Place the chiles and onion mixture in a blender or food processor. Add 1 cup of the broth and puree until smooth, adding more broth if necessary. Strain the mixture through a sieve.

In a large saucepan, combine the chile mixture, venison, and remaining broth. Bring it to just below boiling, reduce the heat, and simmer until the meat is very tender and the sauce has thickened, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Serves 4 to 6.


First, the 3/3 time requirement is an understatement. Even though I scaled the recipe, it still takes time to roast the chiles, de-seed, use the sieve, so forth. There are places to save time: the sauce ingredients all go into a blender, so mincing garlic and crumbling chiles is not a necessity. Chopping the onion does not require nice uniform pieces. Meat can be purchased already cut.

Me, I was immediately off recipe not only with my choice of meat, but also availability of the prescribed chiles. The process, though, was very similar. Overall, it is a doubling of what the recipe calls for with slight changes:

16 dried New Mexican red chiles
2 pasilla chiles (dried)
2 poblano chiles
2 habanero chiles (optional)
chili powder
corn oil (as needed)
5 pounds bison tenderloin, but into 1" pieces
2 large onions, cored and sliced
6 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled
5 cups beef broth

In the interest of letting the ingredients get to know each other, and a general lack of block time, I did this is three chapters.

Chapter 1 - sauce

This took all of 2 hours to complete.

Preheat the oven to 250F. Roast same kind chiles to the capacity of the oven. 15 minutes was right to roast but not burn them. As they are completed, remove from the oven, open, and de-seed. I just tore them into strips and set aside as completed.

The onion and garlic were prepared as I had time in between oven sessions. Also, a large pot of water was put on the stove and heated. With care, the onion can be sauteed with corn oil, then garlic added, while chiles are in the oven, but be careful not to burn the garlic.

When all the dried chiles are prepared, place them into the hot water for about 5 minutes then drain, reserving 1 cup of the water.

Place the ingredients into a food processor as capacity dictates; this may require several batches. Process into as thin a liquid as possible, then run the liquid through a sieve to eliminate any lumps.

Cover and store overnight.

Chapter 2 - Meat

Cube the meat as uniformly as possible. Pour sauce into a stock pot or other large pot, taking into account the volume the meat will add to the capacity. Warm the sauce but do not boil.

In a skillet, add corn oil, heat, and brown the meat. Drain. Add the meat back into the skillet and saute while dusting the meat with chili powder until all sides are coated and cooked.

Add the meat to the sauce and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer, covered, for 1 1/2 hour. Allow to cool, uncovered, and store in the refrigerator overnight.

Chapter 3 - Final Prep

Heat the mixture uncovered to allow further thickening of the sauce, serve in a bowl, or possible as a filling for tortillas.


Conclusion

Bison is normally a tough meat, but the tenderloin was soft. The cooking made the tenderloin fall apart to the bite and I was glad to have further sauteed the meat with the chili powder. Also, I initially did not add the habaneros until tasting the sauce. I added them, with very little addition to the spiciness.

To be clear, this is not a spicy recipe. I thought it needed a little something, and the habaneros add a bit of taste. Still, optional. Many in my family think ketchup can be spicy, and they were able to eat this comfortably. There was an incredibly complex taste which built upon itself bite after bite. It was well received by the participants, though one commented, "It looks like a can of dog food." Well, yeah, guess it did. Perhaps some work on the presentation would help, maybe some corn and pimento for some visual texture, or the leafy part of green onion.

I probably ended up with about a gallon of final product. I needed to make more but was restrained by the price of bison tenderloin. With the amount of cooking, a roast cut could likely be used with the same effect. I am sure beef or pork would be tasty as well, but am looking forward to trying venison.

This recipe, and the previous Mexican Corn Chowder, are side dish recipes. The main course recipes read like they would taste good, and I am interested in trying them and other locations offered with this series of books.

Link is to Amazon's Food of Sante Fe.
Posted by:swksvolFF

#3  *and I am not drying the chiles, just warming them to aromatic.

If it were cooking outside weather, and I had a good cooker able to put out a consistent low temperature, that would add a different flavor to the sauce, especially something like a traeger or other low cooking smoker, and then maybe only those chiles which are fresh.

Dunno. Guess I'll have to find out sometime.
Posted by: swksvolFF   2016-02-29 17:09  

#2  I'd guess to get The Spice with habaneros, for me, I would at least quadruple the amount.

If ketchup is 1, and your mouth going the way of black hat guy at the end of Raiders of the Lost Ark is a 10, I live at about 7. My recipe is about a 3, and the original a 2.

I could see bell peppers with Big Spice.

Yes, the house smelled phenomenal for about a week. Wife was joking it was what brought all the coyotes into town.

Bison meat from northstarbison.com - it is a couple dollars and is good quality; smelled like someone was steeping a cup of sleepytime while I was browning.
Posted by: swksvolFF   2016-02-29 16:17  

#1  Moar Habanero!

Sounds wonderful, I can almost smell it. Bell peppers for presentation.
Posted by: Shipman   2016-02-29 09:24  

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