Another man brought to Bagh by the earthquake was a very different kind of Pakistani. With a striped polo-shirt, beige trousers and better English grammar than most people in the UK, Mohammed Mustafa had come not on foot, but by car. Based in Islamabad, he had been told by his boss to go down to Kashmir to help the people there. And he had made a pretty good job of it. He set up a massive outdoor kitchen, cooking 1,200 meals a day for earthquake survivors. From Mohammed Mustafa's point of view it was plain common sense.

But this is Ramadan, the time of year that Muslims fast between sunrise and sunset. Feeding 1,200 people with no kitchen requires a bit of preparation. You need to light fires, boil rice and cook meat. It takes several hours. You have to get going in advance. But one of the local mullahs did not see it that way and he paid Mohammed Mustafa a visit.

"What are you doing?" he shouted. "Don't you know it's Ramadan now? This is just not permitted. You can't cook food during the day. It's against Islam. Stop or I'll burn this place down - your tents, your pots, everything."

"Surely," Mohammed Mustafa argued, "if the people are hungry they must eat? Look, they're suffering. I'm a Muslim too. These people have nothing, they need this food."

It was a vitriolic exchange but, in classic Pakistani style, they eventually worked out a compromise. "Cook in the day if you must," the mullah grumbled, "but if I see anyone here eating during daylight hours I'll be back and I'll set this place alight."

I asked many people in Bagh why the earthquake had happened and time and again I was told it was Allah's will. "He's punishing us for our misdeeds," they said.

"But why would Allah kill children?" I asked.

"To teach us a lesson," one mullah told me, "that we may learn that we need to live better lives."