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| My, How Times Have Changed -- Russian Restaurant Review |
| 2007-04-03 |
| The opening of the first Volkonsky, on the Garden Ring near Patriarch's Ponds, caused a bit of stir among fans of fine baked goods. Its breads and buns drew crowds from far and wide, and the line at the counter quickly grew, leading to a lengthy wait for impatient loaf lovers. Needless to say, getting a seat in the tiny attached cafe was nearly impossible. The opening of a second Volkonsky on the Arbat has only hooked more fans. The recently opened third Volkonsky differs significantly from the others, however. While the first two are primarily bakery stores and their attached cafes seem almost an afterthought, at the new Maroseika branch, the cafe takes pride of place. The general design is quaint and rather girly, obviously intended for those in touch with their feminine side. This is the perfect place for sipping tea while nibbling at dainty cakes. The tea selection is extensive, starting from 130 rubles for a 330-milliliter pot. The coffee range is also no slouch, kicking off at 170 rubles for an espresso. The remainder of the rather brief menu offers pretty much what you would expect from a bakery's cafe, with the exception of the rather ambitious-sounding fillet of beef with vegetables (320 rubles) and the baked sea bass with wok-fried vegetables and orange sauce (360 rubles). There are sandwiches, such as ham and cheese croque-monsier (110 rubles), hot panini with chicken, mozzarella, grilled sweet pepper and pesto (170 rubles) and baguette with lettuce, tomato and brie (150 rubles). There are six varieties of quiche (all 160 rubles) and four sorts of pasta with mix-and-match sauces (210-230 rubles), including the vegetarian lasagna (230 rubles). Of course, there are also the temptingly displayed baked goods, fresh from the oven, which are probably your best bet. Being a real lady's kind of place, there's no beer or vodka on the menu. The only alcohol is three varieties of cider -- pear, apple (both 170 rubles for 150 milliliters) and apple aged six months (290 rubles) -- although these are not always available. The deli is worth a look. Besides the pates and jams, there are some hard-to-find treats such as Canadian maple syrup. Somewhat different from the old days of bread, if you could get it, and potatoes, if you could get them. |
| Posted by:Anonymoose |